When American school buses retire, they aren’t always put out to pasture—some are auctioned off and given new lives as colorful Chicken Buses. In Guatemala, these Chicken Buses, also called “Camionetas,” are a primary source of transportation for locals and tourists. Most are independently owned and operated by a team of two—the driver and the “ayudante,” who serves as a sort of conductor that’s responsible for collecting money, loading bags and/or livestock, and directing passengers. The whole operation is fast-moving, hectic, and confusing to the casual observer who can only marvel as people and parcels are crammed in with no apparent system or schedule.

The Birth of a Chicken Bus

The first 10 years (or 150,000 miles) of a Chicken Bus’s life are spent as a virtual carbon-copy of every other yellow school bus in America. In this capacity, it dutifully and cautiously moves kids from home to school, stopping at every railroad crossing and halting traffic with its blinking lights and extended STOP sign. Safety is a top concern, naturally, as is a dependable and reliable schedule. But all that changes when it’s deemed too old or mechanically suspect to keep carting around kids. Instead, it’s sold off to the highest bidder, towed to Central America, and retrofitted with a bigger engine, a roof rack, a destination board, and a fancy paint job. It emerges as if it were a butterfly coming out of a cocoon—no longer plain, yellow, and slow, but souped-up, brightly decorated, and ready to fly (around hairpin turns). Now, it’s reborn as a chicken bus.

Are they Safe?

Relatively speaking, Chicken Buses are a safe and fun way to travel around Guatemala. But there are exceptions (avoid them in the inner city), and of course, things to know to make your trip more enjoyable and successful. Even with their colorful, cheerful, and even welcoming outer appearance, Chicken Buses have a reputation for being crowded, uncomfortable, and dangerous—all of which can make visitors skeptical or intimidated about hopping on board. 

Before you arrive in Guatemala, here are a few facts and tips to help alleviate some of your Chicken-Bus anxieties or curiosities.

• Keep your stuff in sight. Holding on to your belongings is your best bet, of course. If you have larger items, use interior overhead racks (if available) or stash them under your seat (if you get one). Be cautious about putting your items on the roof rack, because things have been known to disappear from this storage area. If this is your only option, remove anything valuable in advance, just to be safe.
• Know where you’re going. Ask the ayudante as you board the bus if it’s going to your destination. Say the name of the town or spot and be sure you get a clear and definitive yes.
• Do your homework. Education and communication are your two best safety tools on a Chicken Bus. Know approximately how much you should be paying (ask a local, research online, etc.) BEFORE you board the bus. Pay the ayudante after you’re already on the bus, not as you’re getting on. He’ll find you, don’t worry!
• Hang on. If you like roller coaster rides, you’ll really enjoy the thrill of a Chicken Bus. But, like at the amusement park, it’s best to hang on if you’re not strapped in—and on a Chicken Bus, there are no seat belts or harnesses. Chicken Buses are notoriously fast, crazy rides—but that’s half the fun. Just be sure you’re prepared for the journey—and hold on to your seat, and your stuff!

If you’re up for an adventure, and want to experience the local way to travel, give a Chicken Bus a try. But for those of you a bit too chicken to brave the bus yourselves, we’re not judging! Just be sure to get a few pictures of these iconic, colorful, wild wheels as they zip around Guatemala!